Haven't been in 14 years, but I remember that Louie's Patio/Backyard was outstanding. I'm pretty sure it's still there. Ya' gotta do Sloppy Joe's Bar, too, for Ernest's sake.
Fish the flats, man. Greatest all-day fishing experience I've ever had, though the windiness of the afternoon made it a little tougher--late January. Brought in a barracuda, lost a lemon shark, spooked three permit. The guide saw a Jack Crevalle or two when the shark went by, but I couldn't from my vantage point. Alas, no tarpon--not their season for the flats.
Have a great time. Look up Keith Bland, an artist down there who specialists in oil painting. Haven't heard from him in some time, but he used to specialize in portraits. I knew him in high school and ended up at the same college with him. If you do, say that Memphis Bobby sent ya. He can give you fishing tips, too. Hell of an athlete in his day.